In this tutorial I’ll show you how to build an L-shaped counter for my shed using the leftover countertop from my kitchen renovation. With these simple step-by-step instructions you’ll be able to knock this project off in a couple hours!
Building Materials (with Dimensions)
Since I used the piece they messed up the seam on from my kitchen renovation, my exact dimensions were 75″L x 67″W x 25″D. Yours can just fit your space.
- 2qty, 4′ boards (straight cuts)
- 6qty, 8″ square blocks
- 3qty, 2′ boards with 45° cuts in each end (opposing each other)
- 3qty, 31¼” boards for legs* (the ¼ is not critical, we just did it for a tighter fit)
3″ and 2½” Deck Screws
- Use the 2½” screws to secure the top to the 8″ 2×4 blocks and to the 45° boards
- Screw UP from the bottom of the table. Be sure not to go through the top of the counter. If you feel like the screw may go through, change the angle. Test near the back in a place where you can cover up your mistake.
- It’s easier to screw DOWN from the top of the counter into the wood, but it obviously won’t look as nice when it’s done. There’s also a chance of splitting the wood or laminate. But, it’s your choice and if this is going in a shed or a workshop you may not mind.
- All screws that go into the countertop should be placed in the thickest edge to ensure there is no protrusion through the top.
- Tape Measure
- Square (for straight lines and 45° angler)
- Miter saw with rotating table (makes life easier), or
- a circular saw
- On a serious budget? Borrow or rent a saw, or
- the cheapest way to make the cuts is by purchasing a miter box and a hand saw, or
- beg the big box store people to cut everything for you (haha)
Ok, all jokes aside…
Let’s Build an L-Shaped Counter!
This is the simplest, fuss-free way to build an l-shaped counter we could come up with. Let’s see if you can follow along!
- Screw 3- 8″ blocks to each 4′ 2×4 using 2½” screws.
- Using 3″ screws, screw assembly to the two walls at the height of your legs. (in my case it was 31″)
- Using the aid of sawhorses, chairs (or something similar in height to hold up the opposing ends of your counter) and a friend, screw up through the blocks to attach to the bottom of the table. Use approx. 3- 2½” screws per block.
- Once the top is secured to the wall, place the 3(qty) 2′ 2x4s with 45° angles on each end on the two furthest corners and one in the middle.
- Place 2½” or 3″ screws at an angle to ensure they don’t protrude through the top of the counter. If protrusion occurs, take screw out and put at a different angle.
- Use one screw to fasten board to counter (two if desired)
- Use two screws per board to mount to the wall.
At this point the L-Shaped Counter should be held up on its own. So, if it is, congrats!
- Use your 31¼” leg boards in each corner and in the middle of the L to hold up your table. This will add strength and stability to the braces we just attached to the wall.
- Secure the legs to the front of the table by drilling 2½” screws a 45° angle from the leg into the table. This is called “toenailing”. One screw is plenty since the boards are cut ¼” long for a tight fit (if you didn’t do this you may need an extra screw)
- Toenail the table to the floor using 3″ screws at a 45° angle so that your table is securely fastened to the ground (the same way you secured the legs to the front of the table). Again, one screw should be fine, and if you are building this in your house and don’t want to screw into the floor it’s your call.
That’s it for this tutorial on how to build an l-shaped counter. My next step is adding some pegboard behind the counter to organize my garden tools, and some mason jars to hang below a shelf to organize screws, nails etc.
How did you do it? If you need more photos or explanation feel free to ask in the comment area. It’s getting dark in our neck of the woods this time of year so a lot of this was done after work when there wasn’t much time to actually lay things out for process. photography.