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The cheapest way to enlarge your windows

The cheapest way to enlarge your windows

ByAmy Fedele Posted on Updated on DIY Projects

Did you know that enlarging a window isn’t as expensive as you think? To save money enlarge your window vertically, which is called a cut-down. Making a window wider involves permits, new headers, and a lot more work… which means a lot more money.

Larger windows = more light

A larger window can completely transform your room. As a home owner, there’s so many things that “need” to be done. I’ve learned that a lot of money is spent on invisible upgrades.

I’ve been in my home since 2012 now. And I’m SO thankful that I’m at a point where I’m not just doing work that needs to be done. Rather, I’m able to tailor my projects around the WAY I use the house, and what would make that easier or better.

After enlarging my window in the office, I can honestly say that adding more natural light is a fantastic way to spend your money.

It will make you smile. You will use the space more often.

You will be in a better mood.

It’s one of those renovations that you will enjoy EVERY SINGLE DAY.

That’s why I wanted to share with you some tips for getting larger windows without blowing your entire life savings. Because, if you don’t know what you really want before talking to a contractor, you jaw will DROP at the price of some of the window options available.

Project Planner worksheets

Project Planner Worksheets

If you plan a lot of DIY projects around the house, you may be interested in my project planning worksheets. Print new ones whenever you need – they will keep you super organized as you’re working and also serve as a great way to archive your projects when they’re done!

Types of Window Enlargements

There are three basic ways that you can get bigger windows… a cut-down, an enlargement or a cut-up.

Window Cut-Down Option

A cut-down involves expanding the window opening downward. If you qualify for the “cut-down” option, this is the key to keeping the price down! Why? Well because a cut-down doesn’t affect the header above the window or the studs around it.

Because the structural integrity of the walls surrounding the windows is not challenged, cut-downs usually don’t require a municipal building permit.

A cut down also requires less work than enlarging the width of your window and, as a result, costs less money than other options.

Window enlargement before & after
Office window before and after “cut down”

Here’s a before and after of my office window. It’s the same width (about 60″) but enlarged downward from 14″ to 50″ in height! If you are lucky enough to have crappy windows that are placed high on the wall and are very wide, you are the perfect candidate for what’s called a “cut-down.”

Now you can save some money!

Window Enlargement Option

The enlargement option is the most expensive. An enlargement of your window means that you are either extending the window left of right (the width).

If you want to enlarge your window width, your project will require a permit from your city/borough. 

Window Cut-Up Option

There’s also the “cut-up”, which means the window is small and you want to increase the height of the window upward. This may be combined with the cut-down to increse your window height in both directions.

Performing a “cut up” on a window also requires a permit.

This option is always more expensive than a cut-down because you are affecting the studs (enlargement option) and/or the header above the window (cut-up) option. In fact, I’d estimate this would run around the same cost as an enlargement.

Cost of Enlarging your Windows

I did some research before I had these windows installed and I found on Houzz that the cost for a cut-down would be about $500 in addition to the cost of the window. I was really excited. Until I got some actual quotes.

In my experience the estimate on Houzz is absolute BS. I’m sorry if I mislead you by saying that this is a cheap project. It’s really not.

The cost to cut-down my window was around $1,000. This is in addition to the cost of the actual side-by-side double-hung window which ran around $500. You’re looking at about double the cost of what Houzz estimates.

You should also keep in mind that my town is typically on the lower end of cost when it comes to construction/renovation. You’ll have to get some quotes to find out what this would cost where you live.

Just for reference, the contractors I spoke with said to enlarge the window would be at least double the cost of a cut-down. So, let’s call it $2,000 for an enlargement.

Enlarged window before/after photos

  • Before cut-down (inside)
  • Before cut-down (outside)
  • During cut-down (inside)
  • During cut-down (outside)
  • After cut-down (inside)
  • After cut-down (outside)
  • After cut-down (outside)
  • After cut-down (outside)

Tips for working with contractors

Since this project will likely entail hiring a window contractor, I thought this would be a good place to add some tips about working with contractors.

As a home owner, I’ve found dealing with contractor BS to be one of the least enjoyable parts of renovating my home. Many contractors will try to screw you by overcharging. Others will not call you back. Even worse, some will show up, give you a quote, then vanish into thin air.

Thankfully, this isn’t true for every single contractor you’ll come into contact with. But one or two bad apples will really have you hesitating to start your next home reno project. So, follow these tips to protect yourself and set your project up for success!

Ask around

The best place to find a really good contractor is through word of mouth. So, ask your family, friends and neighbors for advice. Heck, even ask on Facebook. I’ve found some of the best contractors through other connections and it really makes the decision process a lot easier.

Get 3 quotes

This is always my advice: get 3 quotes on the project. You can get more if you want, but you need at LEAST 3 quotes. I can’t tell you how many times I’ve gotten a project quoted to find that the prices were ALL OVER THE MAP. You need to get 3 so that you have some comparison. When I got the first quote, I was baffled by the cost because of the fake crap I read online about this being really cheap. Second quote, baffled again… but I suppose this was a reality check. The third time I was ready for it, although I was hoping that they were going to fall into that $500 range I saw online. Unfortunately, not… on this project all three quotes worked out to be within $100 of each other.

Ask for a line-item estimate

On a side note, I also had four basement windows replaced during this project. When I asked the contractors to line-item the estimate (you should always do this), the pricing was different… some were charging more or less for the basement windows, or more or less for the office cut-down project. If I wanted to be a complete scrooge I could have hired one company for the basement and another for the cut down. But… it’s likely that the contractor would raise the price if I did this, or even not want to take the job because it was too small and not worth their time.

Get a contract

It’s important to get some sort of written contract or invoice from the contractor. Make sure that you cover everything. In a window project, you’ll want to make sure that the quote covers:

  • Repairing / replacing any exterior material like your siding or brick.
  • Interior trim — I recommend showing them another window in your home that you want the trim to look like so that they can give you an appropriate price. Some trim work is more labor-intensive than others and this can affect the price.
  • Payment terms — when do they need payment? I’d recommend giving them half down, and holding the other half until you are completely satisfied with the project. For example, if they are ready to leave, but didn’t finish the trim work, or did some damage to your drywall / plaster when they cut, you’ll want to make sure you address this before handing over the final payment. This is fair to the contractor as well– they won’t be called back to the jobsite after the fact to fix something that was just overlooked.
  • Warranty information — usually there’s different warranty times / coverage for the labor and the actual window. So, if your wall starts leaking or the seal breaks, you’ll need to refer to the labor warranty. If the window cracks or gets condensation inside, this is likely to be a defect in the window itself, which can be under a different warranty.

Don’t decide just on the bid price

It’s easy to think that getting three quotes means that you will automatically pick the cheapest one. But… you really shouldn’t. I always judge contractors by the free estimate meetings I have with them.

Does the contractor seem like they are interested in your project?

Was the contractor able to confidently answer all of your questions?

Did the contractor offer you multiple options (cheaper vs. more expensive ways to get the job done)?

Are you comfortable with the contractor being in your home? What about when you aren’t there to supervise?

Honestly, I go with my gut when the prices are close. If I liked one contractor’s personality over another, I will 9 times out of 10 choose that contractor.

So… if there are any contractors reading this… be respectful, personable, friendly, and helpful during the estimate. I am always grateful for that and am always surprised at how many contractors are rude to me…

…because I’m a woman.

…because they are tired or overwhelmed with work.

…because I don’t know specifics about their specialty that they somehow “expect” me to know.

Customer service is really important to me, and it should be to you as well.

Don’t forget to grab my super handy project planner worksheets for all of your DIY project needs! Check out the video to see how I use them. 

The cheapest way to get bigger windows
Don’t forget to pin this post, The cheapest way to get bigger windows, for later

Wrapping Up

So, today we’ve learned that the cheapest way to get your windows enlarged is the cut-down option, which means enlarging the window downward vertically on the wall.

We also learned that this can be about $1000, plus the cost of window so it’s actually not THAT cheap. But, it’s about half the price the alternative. Enlarging or cutting-up a window involves getting a permit and adjusting the header and studs, which affect the structural integrity of your home.

I also included a few tips for working with contractors on your window project. Ask around to get some referrals. Sometimes the best option is to choose someone based on the recommendation of a trusted family member, friend or neighbor.

Even if you are really happy with a referral, you should still get three quotes with line-item estimates. It’s just good practice to do so to make sure that you are paying the appropriate price. Paying too little can be just as bad (if not worse) than paying too much. You don’t want to regret your decision when the damage is already done.

In addition, make sure you ask about extra things like repairing/replacing exterior brick or siding, finishing off the trim (inside and outside) and ensuring that the window selection and finish work will match the other windows in your home.

Don’t forget to discuss payment terms and warranty information, too!

Lastly, trust your gut. Don’t always go for the cheapest bid. Consider other factors like… Was the contractor friendly? Did he/she make you feel comfortable?

Developing relationships with contractors is an important part of being a home owner… you never know when you may need their services again so take the time to find a good one!

I’m interested in knowing if anyone else has had a cut-down window enlargement project done. Comment below if you would like to share the price of your project so that we can see what it would cost in different areas other than the Northeast Pennsylvania region. Thanks for reading and as always let me know if you have any questions.

-Amy

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Read this before installing DIY Faux Shiplap Walls

Read this before installing DIY Faux Shiplap Walls

ByAmy Fedele Posted on Updated on DIY Projects

Do you love Fixer Upper? Do you feel like you are channeling Joanna Gaines’s energy and know that your world will be a better place if you could just stare at some shiplap on the walls of your own home? Great. Keep reading to find out how to get those “easy” DIY shiplap walls installed without getting divorced or ending up in a puddle of your own tears when it goes terribly wrong.

Faux Shiplap - start at the top and work your way down

Why did I do this project?

It all started when I began searching for cool ways to update my bathroom to make it fit my evolving style. I started pinning bathroom ideas and inspirational photos, and I noticed that I was gravitating toward dark/rich colored walls.

Who knew?

I’ve always been one of those bright and airy kind of gals. But… when I stumbled across this photo of a dark blue wall with a reclaimed wood headboard I just fell in love.

Navy Blue Walls with Reclaimed Wood Headboard
How lovely is this navy wall mixed with the beautiful reclaimed wood headboard? Photo credit: Setting for Four

Dark walls for non-mansion dwellers

Let’s be honest. Painting a room in your house super dark blue is all well and fine if you live in a mansion. But I don’t. And I’m assuming neither do you.

Most of our houses/rooms are small. Painting a room this color without a wall full of windows would look like complete ass. Why? Well, because dark colors actually absorb the light in the room, while light colors reflect it. If you don’t have a lot of natural light and paint a room dark, it ends up looking and feeling like a cave.

I don’t want to shower in a cave.

So, after finding some more photo inspiration I decided that adding white wood paneling would give me the lightness the room needs, while still letting me have the dark navy color I really wanted. Any kind of paneling is great for breaking up a space… bead board, wainscoting, and of course, shiplap.

But let’s get real. Real shiplap is out of my budget. That’s where the DIY faux shiplap walls came into play.

Will this look like real shiplap?

Yes… but don’t invite the shiplap police over

I freaking hate the word “faux” by the way. These walls look like shiplap. And if you love Fixer Upper, you’ll love these walls. But they aren’t the real-deal shiplap. So don’t go inviting the shiplap police over to assess them. Because you will fail and be thrown into shiplap prison. I hear the walls are concrete there, and you won’t be happy.

But seriously, for any normal person, this will give you the look of shiplap, without a lot of heavy lifting or prep work. And you can tell your friends that they are real if you want to. Just make sure they aren’t undercover shiplap police and you’ll be fine.

Here’s a quick photo overview of my DIY faux shiplap wall installation. It turned into a bit more than just installing shiplap… decided to give the whole bathroom a facelift.

  • Bathroom, before
  • Bathroom, after – new shower curtain
  • Navy walls and faux shiplap
  • antique medicine cabinet
  • Custom mirror & new lighting
  • Painted the vanity to match.

Product / Material Links

This is not a tutorial… it’s better

I’m going to get real again. I’m not going to write a huge how-to tutorial on DIY faux shiplap walls. Why you ask? Well, you can google it and find like a million other posts. I didn’t invent this. Nor do I feel like writing something other people have already written.

So, I’m going to direct you to my favorite tutorial instead over at Sawdust 2 Stitches. Read what Corey has to say. She has good step-by-step instructions that are easy to follow.

But wait… don’t go yet. Make sure you read my post too. Why? Because after following this tutorial, I have some more recommendations. Some things that, man, if I had to rip the whole thing down and start over I would TOTALLY do it this way.

Haha like I would ever try this project again. Maybe. Not in the near future, though.

Anyway the rest of this post is good stuff. And if you learn from my mistakes it should save your relationships or marriages and/or sanity.

What do I mean by “this project isn’t easy”?

I read several blog posts with titles reading “EASY” DIY Shiplap Walls. What I think, is that the posts should say “EASIER DIY Shiplap Walls”. The only thing “easy” about this project is that it’s easier than reclaiming real shiplap from some other house or building, removing the nails, sanding and repairing it, all before you can install it in your own home.

I honestly don’t think this project is easy. Personally, I tend to see those “easy” posts and think…

“I’m an intelligent human being, and this person with this mommy blog thinks this is easy, so if I can’t figure it out I must be a complete moron.”

And then I go on to try the project and feel like an even bigger moron because it came out all crapped up. So I would preface this project by saying it’s more in the “intermediate” skill category.

How do you know if you are an intermediate DIYer? Here’s an easy test: If you don’t own or have access to a miter saw, pneumatic nail gun, and orbital sander, I’d say wait until you do before you try to tackle this.

Shiplap Wall Prep Tips

Ok, so you have your power tools, and you’re ready to give this a go! Great! Here are some tips to get you started. After doing this project myself, I realized that I was so excited to actually see the shiplap on the walls, that I kind of skimped on the prep work. I think that you shouldn’t.

Get the plywood cut at the hardware store.

I got the 24×48” pieces of 1/8” ply cut at the big box store. They sometimes aren’t happy about doing it, but they will if you ask nicely and slip them a five dollar bill (shhhh).

Just be aware that if you are getting the wood cut into 6” strips that you will get seven 6” strips and one strip that’s between five and size inches. Make sure you put that one off to the side and use it for the bottom where your walls are [probably] crooked. Don’t use it in the middle by accident.

Plan your shiplap around outlets and light switches.

Ok, so you’re adding anywhere from 1/8-1/2” to the thickness of your walls. Which means, your outlets and light switches will have to be pulled out of the wall a bit so that the little metal lip rests on top of the wood and you’ll still be able to access them.

Well, that won’t work if the lip of your outlet lands in between the shiplap boards in one of those recessed/groove areas. Make sure that the top and bottom of your outlets have plywood to rest on.

And, while you are at it, measure how close you need to get the plywood to the outlet in order for the lip to catch on your wood. Going too far away from the opening could land you in a groove and you will be so sad.

Paint the wall first.

Yeah… this is probably a no-brainer. But, unless you have a paint gun and can spray both the wall and the shiplap once it’s installed, you’ll need to paint the wall behind where you are installing this.

Or, put up some pieces and see what your existing wall color looks like behind it. You may like the contrast and save yourself some time!

Sand the plywood before installing.

This is probably the #1 tip I have for you. Usually when getting the wood cut at the big box store, they are using a crappy, worn-out blade. It left a lot of my pieces with a tattered edge. I thought I wouldn’t mind this so much, but once I started putting it up I hated it.

I wish, wish, wish that I had sanded the edges first. This would have saved me so much time, because after it was installed I was trying to get in between my little 1/8” gap with a sander to smooth out those edges. It took forever… and I got tired and cried. Don’t be like me.

Paint the front AND EDGES of the plywood before installing.

So… I read this somewhere and I was so proud of myself for taking the time to paint the edges before installing. Once the shiplap is installed it’s a huge pain in the rear to get a brush into those gaps in order to paint them.

Unfortunately, I did not sand, so after everything was installed I had to go in there with a sander, thus sanding off the pre-painted edges of my wood. So, after sanding I had to go back in with a tiny brush and touch up all those little edges. It sucked. This is the second time I cried during the installation.

Figure out your corners.

Ok… so how are you going to meet the corners of the plywood together? Are you going to run it all the way to the edge of the wall, then butt the next wall up against that? Or are you going to leave a little gap there and cover it with some molding?

DIY Faux Shiplap Corner
Make sure you know how you’ll handle the corners before you begin as it will change your measurements. I chose to leave a little gap and put in a nice piece of dark blue molding.

That’s really up to you, just make sure you know what you’re doing first, because it’s going to change the measurements you’re going to use. You don’t want to end up cutting all your wood long, then having to re-cut it. That sucks.

Installation Tips

Ok great. We are all prepped and ready to go! And you are way ahead of the ball game here because you now haven’t made many of the mistakes I already made. You should be ready to install your “faux” shiplap now. So… here are a few more tips to get you through the installation process.

Use a big level.

Make sure that you are going in a straight line. It’s deceiving using a level sometimes. And it’s really easy to just kind of eyeball it and not realize that the bubble is a tiny bit off. If you have a long stretch of wall to cover, the tiniest slant up or down is going to rear its ugly head. So, you’ll need a nice, long level for this project.

The worst part? When you get to the next wall, your plywood wont line up with the other wall and it will look mismatched.

The second worst part? When you get to the bottom of the wall you’ll have to make a slanted cut in order to accommodate for your installation not being level.

Making a slanted cut down the length of a board sucks… even if you have a table saw. So… take some extra time to do this properly. Repeat after me, “avoid slanted cuts at all costs.”

Start at the top and work down.

I debated on this for awhile but finally decided to start at the top. I think it was the way to go, although it’s not a deal breaker. I just know that my walls are not perfectly level and I had some baseboard heating to deal with. It just made more sense to have those quirky pieces at the bottom rather than in the center of the wall.

Faux Shiplap - start at the top and work your way down
It’s easier to start installing your faux shiplap at the top and work your way down.

My outlets and switches are also higher on the wall, so it made sense to start closer to these areas to make sure I had the spacing right. I should note that I only put the faux shiplap on the bottom half of the wall.

Glue the backs of the boards.

I didn’t want to do this… for obvious reasons, like, “what if I want to take it down? It’s going to be a nightmare to rip adhesive off the wall.” Well… when I installed the shiplap and used the nail gun to secure it, I got some gaps. Perhaps if you use thicker plywood than I did this wouldn’t be as big of an issue.

I ended up nailing the sh!t out of some of the pieces to try to close the gaps. It kind of worked… but not 100%. If I had to go back I probably would have used adhesive to glue the wood to the wall… at least in the places that looked like they were bowing outward.

Know that you’ll have to repaint the wall.

Even if you are like me, and painted the front and sides of the plywood before installing, just know that you’ll have to give it another coat of paint afterwards. Buy enough paint to do this.

Then, while you’re installing it you won’t have to worry so much about the imperfections because you’ll know you’re going to paint another coat at the end. It will make your day brighter and you’ll be less stressed about it being perfect.

Trim/Molding Tips

We are almost there. The shiplap is up and looking awesome! Now it’s time for some molding. This will really finish things off, right? You’ve got your miter saw and your expensive pieces of molding and you’re ready to go (my molding pieces cost more than the whole wall… yikes). Read these trim & molding installation tips before you get started.

Buy a little extra molding.

Yeah, I know it’s expensive. But you’ll probably screw up or need a piece or two to practice with. So don’t be a cheapo like me and make sure that you have enough to cover yourself. Making trips to the hardware store this late in the game will suck the life out of you.

Paintable caulk is not the be-all-end-all.

I can’t tell you how many posts I’ve read that said… oh yeah don’t worry about the corners and stuff because paintable caulk will cover all the mistakes. This is true, to an extent.  

But… don’t think that you don’t have to know how to cut corner molding. That 1/4” gap that you left will not just magically disappear with this paintable caulk stuff. It will look like crap and will drive you insane. So… spend the time making practice cuts until you have your corners as close as you can get them. Don’t heavily rely on the “magic caulk” to fix everything. It won’t. 

Oh, and keeping a little bowl of water with a balled up paper towel in it to wet your fingers as you caulk is KING. Seriously try this when you are caulking.

Fill in the nail holes.

Well, unless you love the unfinished look that the nails give, I’d recommend filling in most to all of the nail holes. Use that fancy caulk to cover them. It will look more finished.

Paint colors

Navy walls (BM Van Deusen Blue), white faux shiplap (SW Alabaster)

I know someone will ask me this, so I’m going to just tell you know.

There’s tons of great colors out there, though… so don’t let me persuade you.

Wrapping Up

So, today we’ve learned that blog posts reading “Easy DIY Faux Shiplap Walls” are misleading. They should be titled “Easier than Real Shiplap DIY Faux Shiplap Walls.” This is a really fun project, and I don’t want to discourage ANYONE from attempting it. Not my intention at all. I think we are all capable.

But, if you asked my honest opinion I would say that this is an intermediate project, and not one you shouldn’t take on without a miter saw, pneumatic nail gun and an orbital sander. Just follow all of my helpful tips for prepping, installing, and trimming out your shiplap and you’ll have a beautiful DIY faux shiplap wall in no time.

Just kidding… this took us 8 weeks because Clyde and I both work full time and have lives. And… I thought it was going to be done in a weekend like those “easy” blog posts said it would.

Newsflash: it’s going to take longer than you think. But it’s going to be great. And the next time you watch Fixer Upper you can yell at the TV when they make all of this crap look so easy. Good luck, and let me know if you have any questions or more tips to add! I’d love to see your projects!

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